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What lies at the center of a great chef?
Review of The Soul of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman [Penguin Group]
This book was selected by Charleston Treasures to be included in The Kitchen Reader book club for January 2012.

The Soul of a Chef
Michael Ruhlman
Published by Penguin Group
Released on July 31, 2001
978-0-14-100189-0
The first part of the book covers what sounds like a very strenuous and near-impossible-to-pass Certified Master Chef (CMC) exam given by the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). This ten day grueling exam covers the fundamentals of cooking, but in such a way that even the tiniest mistake can make you fail. Mr. Ruhlman observes seven chefs and the judges as they work together to finish the process.
I found this section to be rather dry and somewhat boring; more like a documentary without a soul than a description of a prestigious – in some circles – test. Mr. Ruhlman launched into in-depth discussions about the menus or cooking methods which did not have a lot of pizzazz. I didn’t even really want to finish reading the section until about page 100 when I was just so frustrated because I just wanted to know who passed the test! We found out on page 115 and I just felt immense relief that the section was over.
The second part of the book covers the (then) rising star of Michael Symon who is now known as Iron Chef Michael Symon. Ruhlman describes Symon at two different stages of his restaurant career – when he was working for someone else and when he opened Lola with his then girlfriend. Escapades abound and Ruhlman writes about a couple of times where Symon had to put on his best for critics and magazines. However, Ruhlman advises us readers that Symon puts out the same quality every night and doesn’t do anything special for those critics and reviewers.
This was a very interesting read. If I could have skipped the entire first section (which really focused on whether or not a chef was innate) and instead read the second section (which focused on how the personality of a chef differs and exuberance is better than militant), I would have. I loved this section for its descriptive language, quick pace, and great story. Instead of a documentary, this was a story.
The third part of the book covers the story of Thomas Keller, owner of French Laundry. Ruhlman discusses how Keller got to the point where he became the owner of the restaurant, which was rather a bumbling tale of not an actual lot of success as one would typically measure it. He pointed out the characteristics Keller displays and how those translate into the restaurant business. He mulls over the philosophy of a good cook – he believes that it is about striving for perfection in all things. Cleanliness, precise, ordered. This section was a bit longer than I would have liked it and rambled. However, there were a lot of good quotable moments and lessons to be learned.
While I can’t say that it was the most entertaining book I’ve read in recent times, it was a good solid read – it is a time-consuming read that requires a thoughtful mind and patience. If you have the time and interest, you may enjoy this book. My recommendation is to skip the first section if you can.
Thank you, Mr. Ruhlman.
I give this book a 4 out of 5.
Disclaimer and Affiliate Links
- [Amazon] The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection
- [IndieBound] The Soul of a Chef
| Disclosure of Material Connection: I purchased The Soul of a Chef with my money. The opinions I have expressed are my own and no one else’s. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255 : “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.” |
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