What lies at the center of a great chef?

Review of The Soul of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman [Penguin Group]

This book was selected by Charleston Treasures to be included in The Kitchen Reader book club for January 2012.

The book cover for The Soul of a Chef.
The Soul of a Chef

Published by Penguin Group
Released on July 31, 2001
978-0-14-100189-0

The Soul of a Chef is a three-part discussion of Mr. Ruhlman’s attempt to discover what embodies the soul of a chef. He wonders about and wanders throughout the heart and soul of a chef and settles on three qualities: innate talent, personality, and a quest for perfection.

The first part of the book covers what sounds like a very strenuous and near-impossible-to-pass Certified Master Chef (CMC) exam given by the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). This ten day grueling exam covers the fundamentals of cooking, but in such a way that even the tiniest mistake can make you fail. Mr. Ruhlman observes seven chefs and the judges as they work together to finish the process.

I found this section to be rather dry and somewhat boring; more like a documentary without a soul than a description of a prestigious – in some circles – test. Mr. Ruhlman launched into in-depth discussions about the menus or cooking methods which did not have a lot of pizzazz. I didn’t even really want to finish reading the section until about page 100 when I was just so frustrated because I just wanted to know who passed the test! We found out on page 115 and I just felt immense relief that the section was over.

The second part of the book covers the (then) rising star of Michael Symon who is now known as Iron Chef Michael Symon. Ruhlman describes Symon at two different stages of his restaurant career – when he was working for someone else and when he opened Lola with his then girlfriend. Escapades abound and Ruhlman writes about a couple of times where Symon had to put on his best for critics and magazines. However, Ruhlman advises us readers that Symon puts out the same quality every night and doesn’t do anything special for those critics and reviewers.

This was a very interesting read. If I could have skipped the entire first section (which really focused on whether or not a chef was innate) and instead read the second section (which focused on how the personality of a chef differs and exuberance is better than militant), I would have. I loved this section for its descriptive language, quick pace, and great story. Instead of a documentary, this was a story.

The third part of the book covers the story of Thomas Keller, owner of French Laundry. Ruhlman discusses how Keller got to the point where he became the owner of the restaurant, which was rather a bumbling tale of not an actual lot of success as one would typically measure it. He pointed out the characteristics Keller displays and how those translate into the restaurant business. He mulls over the philosophy of a good cook – he believes that it is about striving for perfection in all things. Cleanliness, precise, ordered. This section was a bit longer than I would have liked it and rambled. However, there were a lot of good quotable moments and lessons to be learned.

While I can’t say that it was the most entertaining book I’ve read in recent times, it was a good solid read – it is a time-consuming read that requires a thoughtful mind and patience. If you have the time and interest, you may enjoy this book. My recommendation is to skip the first section if you can.

Thank you, Mr. Ruhlman.

I give this book a 4 out of 5.

Disclaimer and Affiliate Links

Disclosure of Material Connection: I purchased The Soul of a Chef with my money. The opinions I have expressed are my own and no one else’s. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255 : “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”

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My heart was sad because his was devastated.

Nate and his pinewood derby car.

A Facebook remix:

As kids we don’t understand that when we are heartbroken, our parents are twice as heartbroken. I had the chance to experience that this weekend when my son entered into the local pinewood derby. He’d spent hours dreaming and planning and designing – thinking about his ideal car. He and Aaron worked on it, although Aaron mainly let Nate run the show, and Nate was really excited. His face when his car didn’t even make it across the finish line in all four heats?

Nate is sad.

He sat there like a stone, silently allowing tears to stream down his face. My son is not normally a quiet crier. He will let you know when you’ve done something wrong. He’s sensitive to sounds, textures, and too much visual stimulus. He’s got buttloads of anxiety to the point that after meeting a doctor three minutes earlier, she was already asking if I wanted to medicate him. It was excruciating to sit there and watch as the tears just slid down and he didn’t move and didn’t make a sound.

By the end, we’d convinced him that he had four more shots to make a better car. He has four more pinewood derbys.

Nate and his dad. Nate gives a thumbs up.

This was a very good learning experience for him. He’s not normally able to control emotions or frustration. This was definitely frustrating for him – watching weeks of work culminate in a car that couldn’t even make it to the end. He had been so anxious prior to the event, asking what he was supposed to do if he lost, and saying that he’d better not lose because he would not be happy. That’s code for he would be uncontrollably upset.

He wasn’t. He held in the noise and let out some tears. But he was dejected. He was devastated.

We could have designed the car for him so that it had a better chance at winning, but we let him design it. Learning to handle disappointment is such an important part of childhood…

…But man, it hurts us both. My heart is sad, even as I laugh, knowing that he won’t remember in a few months how devastated he was.

This is on its way.

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Part II: 15 things I’m Doing This Next Season in My Raised Bed

Not sure what’s going on? See Part I: Raised Bed Gardening/Square Foot Gardening at Not A Lot of Plot.

Yesterday I talked about what was covered in the class given by Deb Walser on raised bed and square foot gardening. Today I’m going to talk about what I specifically learned and how I’m going to apply that for next year.

You might want to grab a cup of coffee. This is a long one with lots of resources.

First, an introduction to my garden:

My Raised Beds – Cinder Block

Garden

One of the very first years that I grew anything in my raised beds. The piping is gone, now, and the compost bin is near that back wall of the garage.

Raised Beds

There is now a compost bin where the wheelbarrow is resting and eventually a cold frame will go in where the windows are.

I built my raised beds early in 2008. They are constructed out of cinder block layered two high. My six beds are each about three feet wide by eight feet long on the inside dimensions. They are four feet wide and nine feet four inches long if you include the cinderblocks. I constructed my six beds by laying out hardware cloth onto the ground and then covering it with a double or triple layer of newspaper and cardboard. I dumped in pure compost from a local free source. That’s how I began.

I attempted to layer plastic over thin PVC pipe (see above pictures), but I found that as the sun warmed it up and plants grew up to the pipe, it flexed. That has been removed.

My beds are now a mixture of the original compost, compost that I make in my bin from food and plant material, worm castings, and rabbit manure (composted). I haven’t done anything special with them (such as covering them) in years, but I did fill all the holes left by the cinder block with more of the compost and I use it to companion plant and put herbs. Every year it gets compacted and I just stab the hole vigorously (with PASSION) with my long thin gardening tool and the plant is good to go for the year.

When I selected my beds, I chose the one part in the yard where I could feasibly put them. They are behind the garage and out-of-the-way of the multitudes of playing children. The chain-link fence is on the north-east side: we selected a chain-link instead of solid fence to control shadows. There are shadows from the garage, but if we put the raised beds on the other side of the yard, they would have been incredibly awkward and shadowed by our solid fence, neighbor’s garage, and the hill itself. See here:

Our Yard... With Mulch!

Standing at the pergola-topped gate, the garage door to my right, and looking into the yard. The raised beds are hidden behind the garage to the right of the photo.

Despite not having 100% full sun every day, we have had amazing success growing everything we’ve tried – including eggplants, jalapenos, and more. Remember – full sun really just means six or more hours of direct light. It’s very difficult to get full sun in my yard given that my town is full of trees and I live on the north side of a steeply sloping paha.

Case of the Overgrown Tomatoes

I left for vacation and my tomatoes went wild. In the foreground are about ten tomato plants. In the background growing on the fence you can see Scarlet Runner beans.

In fact, sometimes I think we have too much success as shown by this photo taken after we’d been gone on vacation for a week and a half. The chain-link also doubles as a place to grow my Scarlet Runner beans (my FAVORITE so far). The beautiful red blossoms and the vigorous plant are amazing as a living way to separate my yard from my neighbors’.

15 Things I’m Doing Different This Gardening Year

Deb brought some ideas that were new to me to this class. I was very excited to ponder how I could apply them to my garden. Other ideas have popped into my head since then as a response to things I’ve seen in gardening magazines or around the blogosphere.

1. I want to paint the cinderblocks.

I’d like for them to match my pots that I use on my vertical garden fence. I know that paint is a silly thing to do, environmentally – and particularly on porous cinderblock, but the grey of the cinderblock does get me down and it isn’t very visually appealing. I also happen to have leftover paint.

Even more than just painting the blocks, I might place bits of tile and mirror on the cinder block. The tile and mirror would also match the project I’m considering on my fountain.

2. Utilize more square foot gardening techniques as per Deb’s lecture.

Here’s a picture from someone who has cinder block beds AND square foot gardening. Those people are obviously pretty awesome. One way in which I’ll incorporate square foot gardening is by purchasing chain-link fence tension bars to lay out into the grid (thanks, Deb!). I can write in permanent marker on them to denote what the crop is in the square and next year I can clean it off and paint over the words in preparation for the next year’s use. I’m also going to try to find some resource books to learn more about the technique. It sounds very promising.

3. Mix in some vermiculite into my compost.

Deb informed us that vermiculite, which is a natural mineral used as a soil conditioner and for soilless mediums, can also be purchased in the installation area of your big box stores for much, cheaper than in the gardening center. While I am a huge believer in shopping locally and supporting our local garden centers, that stuff can be expensive. Especially in the quantities I’d need. I will be adding some vermiculite to my compost mixture to improve aeration and drainage and to help retain some water.

4. Use scissors to thin.

When I direct-sow my seedlings, instead of pulling them out of the raised bed, I am going to cut the weak off at the soil. This way I don’t disturb their roots. I’ve had issues before with trying to pull them out (or volunteers) and accidentally yanking out other tender seedlings. We’ll see how well this method works – weeds will require more intense (imagine me flexing right now) efforts.

5. Interplanting.

While I do some interplanting, I certainly don’t do a lot. I would really like to research this. So far I’ve been more interested in companion planting which seems very similar but yet somewhat different. For companion planting I was referred to Carrots Love Tomatoes.

6. Go even MORE vertical. MOAR VERTICAL!

Right now we have a gorgeous pergola-topped gate that Aaron designed and built. It has a wonderful lattice on both sides of the gate. In addition, we have two pieces of lattice flanking our garage door. More Scarlet Runner will be grown here.

Our Yard... With Mulch!

On the left you can see raspberries and blackberries - the blackberries have all been removed. In the center you see a vining flowering plant the hummingbirds love. To the right of that you can see the lattice and pergola-structure.

We also, as mentioned above, use the chain-link fence as a place to grow Scarlet Runner beans. However, I want to add even more vertical gardening space (now I’m chortling like Tim the Toolman Taylor). Deb mentioned using cattle panels as archways – check out Ben’s photo here of his cattle panel vertical gardening. If his gorgeous photo isn’t enough to tempt you, read Mother Earth New’s article about vertical gardening – that’s gardener pornography right there. Yes, I said it.

First we will use three cattle panels to go between the six raised beds on the north-south orientation. Go ahead, scroll up and look. Later, we can add another eight on the east-west orientation (two in each walkway). The cattle panels will butt up against the exterior of the cinder blocks and will also get staked into the ground.

7. Add a mirror.

Sounds simple, right? I was reading a really interesting blog by HolleyGarden at Dreaming of Roses about adding a mirror to the garden. I happen to have an oval-shaped mirror down in the basement. I fully intend to add some water-resistant paint to the wooden supports and set that sucker up in my garden. This really doesn’t impact my raised beds directly, but if I can pretty up that area, I will.

On the note of prettying it up, I would like to dump a load of mulch in between all the beds. They are constructed, by accident, to where our reel motor can get between the beds, but it’s still a hassle I’d rather not have. Maybe some day I could grow a fragrant thyme in between the beds.

8. Make little seedling protection cages.

Every year I lose some of my seedlings to squirrels and birds. It seems inevitable that my cute wobbly little seedlings will become a scrumptious delicacy for the local wildlife. I feel like shooing them away and saying, “Look. I planted those grapes over there and I never harvest them. They’re ALL yours. Go eat those! Leave my sprouts alone!”

They never listen and the grape vine weeps.

Fountain

This grape vine feels sad that the birds prefer the seedlings to its moist delicacies.

I’m going to make these cages out of hardware cloth. Great suggestion, Deb!

9. Create a cold frame and start my season earlier.

Deb had a slide that showed a piece of rigid plastic lying right on top of her raised bed. It let in the light, warmed up the dirt, and trapped the air. DUH! Why did I never think of this before? In addition, I could use passive solar techniques like black jugs filled with water. The cold frame can also be made of old windows or anything that will block the cold air and let the sun’s warmth and rays through (it does not need to be clear). I’ll be talking more about cold frames when I discuss another class from Not A Lot of Plot.

10. Create row covers and let my season go later.

We will be taking rigid PVC pipe (never let it be said we don’t learn from our mistakes) to construct a pentagon-ish shaped row cover that we will secure hardware cloth to and then layer plastic over and under. We’re hoping to ensure at least two inches of air cushion between the two layers of plastic. It gets really cold in Iowa and I’m hoping to keep the plants inside pretty warm!

One of the nice things about the cinderblock construction is that we can slid the PVC pipe right into a wooden 2″ by 4″ that is resting inside the cinderblock hole. Add in some clamp to keep the PVC from being lifted by the wind and blowing away, and we should be in business.

We’ll see how it works.

11. Succession planting.

I need to pay more attention to succession planting so I can maximize yield out of my beds. This will also, of course, be part of starting my season earlier and running it later. What would be really neat is if I could eventually get good enough that I could grow things – in the freezing cold Iowa weather – year round. Christmas Eve fresh and local spinach salad, anyone?

12. Interplanting edibles and ornamentals.

I know that this isn’t really part of my raised bed, but it sort of is. My raised beds are great and they produce TONS of food. But, I’m greedy. I want even more. This year I am going to make a concerted effort to start enough seedlings to pack my raised beds but ALSO pack my new ornamental bed next to my raised fence.

Our Yard... With Mulch!

I made this bed in 2011. It will be a mix of ornamentals and edibles and will eventually wrap the entire yard.

13. Start ALL my own seedlings.

I have been a seed starter for years, but in the past two years I have been so busy with my former full-time job that I only half-heartedly tried. This year with my new indoor plant table/greenhouse, I’m going to be starting hundreds of seeds. I have lights, I have a fan, I have warming pads. Let’s rock this thing!

14. Build my new cold frames-slash-hot beds. Yes, give me your manure.

I’ll discuss this more in a future post.

15. Create a PVC-pipe hydroponic system.

I came across this article about vertical gardening a few days ago and had a brainstorm. The author discussed using PVC pipe to create a vertical hydroponic system by suspending the pipes nearly horizontal on chains. I sent it to my husband with a warning that it was ugly, but we have plans to pretty-it-up. (Thin copper sheeting wrapped around the PVC pipe?) This would be a great place to grow all my lettuces so that I have more room in my raised beds for other crops. It could be taken down, cleaned out, and stored over the winter. The plan is to have it on the south-west side of the garage hanging under the to-be-installed gutters which will feed into another rain barrel. Now I need to learn about how to set up a hydroponic system!

Talk With Me

Have you completed any similar projects? Are you inspired to make some changes in your yard or to put in a raised bed, vertical gardening space, or square foot garden? What do you think will work and what do you think won’t work?

If you’d like to read more about our yard here at EmSun, check out this past summer’s series. You might want to start with Our Plans for 2011.

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